Lisieux France, Normandy

Saint-Dennis Cathedral in Lisieux France

Begun in the 6th century and completed in the 12th century the ancient limestone structure of Saint-Pierre Cathedral dominates the centre of Lisieux France. 


Gazing at the intricate carvings and the buttressed walls I was reminded of my favourite novel: Pillars of the Earth, written by Ken Follett. 


In the book the author describes in detail the effort, the materials, and the skills required to build the massive cathedrals of the era. 

Cathedral details

The novel recreates, quite vividly, the entire life of the village surrounding the cathedral, and of the people who live there.  The construction of cathedrals typically happened over a span of a hundred or more years. 

It was at Saint-Pierre Cathedral in 1152 that the future King of England Henry II, married the richest woman in Europe - Eleanor of Aquitaine.


However, this cathedral is noted for a less noble distinction.  The Bishop Cauchon, who in the 15th century played a key role in the trial and death of Joan of Arc, is buried in there. 

Luckily this ancient cathedral somehow escaped serious damage during bombing campaigns of the World War II. 

Lisieux is a small city in the northern reaches of France - called Normandy.  The area has been inhabited since pre-historic times, by an amazing mix of people. 

Cathedral details

 In the late 3rd century, barbarian raids devastated Normandy.  Coastal settlements were raided by Saxon pirates.  In the 5th century, Germanic tribes invaded from the east, while the Saxons subjugated the Norman coast. 

The area was also very desirable for the occupying armies during both World War I 1914-1919, and World War II 1939-1945.  It would seem that everyone wanted a part of this fertile area with its rolling hills, that dip down to the valley of the Seine River. 

Normandy is famous for cattle, cheeses, butter, apples, apple cider, and the potent apple-brandy known as Calvados. 



Ancient wooden houses in Normandy


Looking for something interesting for dinner we wandered away from the centre of Lisieux towards a group of ancient, sloping, half-timbered houses: still inhabited. 


In the bottom of one of the houses is a restaurant, the Vieux Norman, that has been in existence for hundreds of years at that location. 


The personable proprietor of the restaurant sold us on the Normandy speciality - galettes - a thin, buckwheat flour pancake slightly larger than a crêpe, traditionally folded over a savoury filling of cheese or cream-based sauces, and garnished with a slice of ham, or eggs.  We gave it a try - ham for Lawrie, and smoked salmon for me.   


Galettes are a hearty meal perfect for a day when the chilly fog rolls across the English Chanel and blankets the low-lying land of Normandy. 

Galette - hearty meal in Normandy France

Stuffed from dinner we wandered back towards our hotel. 

Exploring the backside of the cathedral, we poked under tarps that covered scaffolding, piles of limestone blocks, carved stone decorations, and a myriad of building materials stockpiled while yet more repairs are made to the ancient Saint-Pierre Cathedral. 


So, maybe there is no actual "end date" to a cathedral.  Maybe they are on-going projects - built, and re-built over the centuries, with additions and improvements appearing as money is raised from the populace.

Materials to repair the cathedral



Lisieux was a very pleasant, and quaint stop on our way through Normandy.