70th Anniversary services. Photo Ann MacMillan CBC |
They are waiting for the signal to invade the beaches of Dieppe, hoping to begin the liberation of France.
It is August 19th 1942. The service personal are waiting, muscles coiled, breathing slowed – trying to control the fear and the adrenaline. Prayers are whispered. Photos of wives and children are kissed for luck, and tucked into a uniform breast pocket.
A fleeting knowing look is exchanged between infantrymen, thinking; “Will we die here?”
Dieppe France in May of 2012 |
German Junkers aircraft drop heavy bombs that thud into the earth, showering stones, and mud, and body parts into the air. Boots scrabble on the smooth, slippery stones. Men stumble and fall.
An Allied Spitfire plane crashes beside a tank carrier, the pilot struggles to escape as the plane sinks below the surface. The new Canadian Calgary Tank Division desperately tries to land their vehicles.
The smooth beach stones jam tightly into the tank tracks, rendering the machines incapable of movement. Another bomb thuds nearby. Dismembered bodies floated past. The beach stones turn red with splattered gore.
Ill-fated Dieppe Raid August 19th 1942 |
An increase in British radio signal traffic, and a French double-agent had removed any possibility of surprising and overwhelming the German forces. Eight hours later the invasion forces scrambled to pull back, returning to England, leaving behind some of the dead and all of the captured. Of the nearly 5,000 Canadians who participated in the raid, 913 were killed. About 1500 Canadians were taken prisoner.
Seaside cabanas in Dieppe |
We stayed overnight in the centre of town near the 600-year-old St. Jacques cathedral with its scowling gargoyles and intricate stained glass windows. On the bluff, overlooking the town and the beach is the medieval Chateau de Dieppe. It houses a museum that currently specializes in a collection of ivory artifacts from the 18th and 19th centuries.
Dieppe, our hotel was to the right |
I picked up one of the elliptical shale stones, rubbing it absently between my thumb and finger – visualizing the challenge of running on this beach while scared, and loaded down with thirty-five pounds of equipment. Running towards the gun emplacements, still visible seventy years later tucked into the hillside.
How did anyone survive?
We stood silently, staring at the ocean, thinking about the very human cost of war. Any war.
Rocky beach of Dieppe |
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